Making Traditional Thalassery Biryani: The Ultimate Guide

Thalassery was a maritime trading post, and so the cuisine came to be an amalgamation of Indian, French and Arabian influences. One of the most popular dishes is Thalassery biryani or Tellicherry biryani. It is the only biryani that can be found in the cuisine of Kerala and uses kaima, a regional, aromatic variety of rice, instead of basmati rice.

prep time 00 Hour 15 Mins

cook time 00 Hour 45 Mins

chef Team Kitchen Diaries

The repertoire of dishes of the Muslim community see a Mughal influence. Within Kerala, Thalassery also pioneered the bakery industry, with the first bakery established in 1880 and Western cakes being introduced in 1883. Thalassery cuisine is a part of Malabar cuisine, which hails from the North of Kerala, unlike its Southern counterpart, which is referred to as Syrian-Christian cuisine.

Most of the food that’s part of Malabar cuisine uses ghee. Biryani originated during the reign of the Mughals, who brought the biryani from Samarkand, but this version is indigenous to the Malabar Coast. It symbolises the merging of Mughal and Malabari culture and cuisine. It is believed that Thalassery biryani came into being due to the influence of Mysore and Arkot’s Muslim rulers and is a reminder of foreign influences in the Malabar region. It is a part of traditional Mappila cuisine.

The history of Thalassery Biryani reflects the influence the Arabian traders had over the Malabar coast. Hi

The history of Thalassery Biryani reflects the influence the Arabian traders had over the Malabar coast. Historically, the local Muslim community in this particular region used to add their own distinct touch to the biryani recipe, which in turn, created a unique recipe that is now considered to be a culinary gem with its distinct layers, cooking techniques and aromas. Cooked using the dum pukht technique, which involves slow cooking in a sealed pot or handi, here the pot is sealed with dough to trap the steam, allowing the meat and rice to cook in their own juices.

The slow cooking process ensures that the flavours of the spices and herbs infuse into every grain of rice and every tender morsel of meat, creating a rich mix of varied flavours. Raita, a yoghurt-based side dish, is a popular accompaniment that helps balance the spiciness of this biryani. The biryani is often garnished with fried onions, fresh mint leaves, and lemon wedges, adding a vibrant touch to the presentation.

It is not just a dish but a symbol of hospitality and togetherness. The preparation of Thalassery Biriyani is often a communal affair, with family members and friends coming together to help with the intricate steps of layering and cooking.

Make a smooth ginger-garlic paste with a mixer grinder and avoid adding too much water to prevent the masala from becoming runny when cooking.
Cook the meat in a large pot to avoid burning; thick bases spread heat evenly and aid in flavour development.
Fry onions in a wide kadai to provide equal browning; overcrowding results in steaming rather than the desired golden, crisp quality.
To avoid sticking and breakage, use a nonstick pan for parboiling or softly tossing rice, particularly with fragile kaima rice.
Seal your biryani pot securely (with dough or foil) and cover with a heavy lid to retain steam and achieve true dum cooking and rich flavour infusion.

Step 1

Wash the basmati rice and soak it in water for 30 minutes while heating the vegetable oil in a large pot.

Step 2

Add the cumin seeds, cinnamon sticks, green cardamom pods, cloves, and bay leaves. Fry for a few seconds until fragrant.

Step 3

Add the sliced onions and fry until they turn golden brown. Add the ginger-garlic paste and fry for a few more minutes.

Step 4

Add the chopped tomatoes, turmeric powder, red chilli powder, coriander powder, and garam masala powder. Mix well and cook until the tomatoes turn mushy.

Step 5

Add the chicken or mutton pieces to the pot and stir well. Cook for a few minutes until the meat is browned.

Step 6

Add the yoghurt and mix well. Add enough water to cover the meat, season with salt to taste, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the meat is cooked through.

Step 7

In a separate pot, bring water to a boil and add the soaked basmati rice. Cook for 8–10 minutes until the rice is almost done. Drain and set aside.

Step 8

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Take a deep baking dish and grease it with ghee. Layer the cooked meat mixture at the bottom, followed by a layer of cooked rice.

Step 9

Repeat the layers until all the meat and rice are used up. Pour any remaining liquid over the top.

Step 10

Cover the baking dish with foil and bake in the oven for 20–25 minutes.

Step 11

Remove the foil and garnish with fresh coriander leaves and sliced green chillies (if using). Serve hot with raita or pickles.

Frequently Asked Questions

Thalaseery biryani is made with kaima rice rather than basmati, and the spices are lighter and more fragrant.

Yes, you can, but the texture and real flavour will vary slightly from traditional Thalassery biryani.

Yes, dum cooking seals in aromas and guarantees that the rice and meat absorb the spices.

To ensure consistent cooking and a balanced taste, use one protein at a time.

Calories 650 Kcal

Total Fat 25 g

Carbs 70 g

Protein 30 g

ESSENTIAL ITEMS

1 kg Chicken or mutton

500 gm Khyma rice

4 Onions, sliced

4 Tomatoes, chopped

2 tbsp Ginger-garlic paste

2 cups Yoghurt

2 cups Ghee

0.5 cup Vegetable oil

1 tbsp Cumin seeds

3 Cinnamon sticks

4 Green cardamom pods

4 Cloves

3 Bay leaves

0.5 tsp Turmeric powder

2 tsp Red chilli powder

2 tsp Coriander powder

2 tsp Garam masala powder

as per taste Salt

to garnish Fresh coriander leaves

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